"New Year’s Resolution – Eat More Offal" by Chef Kyleigh Beach
I started off 2011 on a daring note by ordering, eating, and actually enjoying beef heart. I am not a huge offal fan, although I must admit it’s growing on me. I readily order chicken liver pate at restaurants and lick the plate clean, but I thought beef heart might be too much for me. I felt I was in good hands, though, because I was having dinner at Three Aces, the relatively new restaurant where one of my former sous chefs is now running the show. (His chicken liver pate is the stuff of dreams.)
I can only imagine how enormous a cow’s entire heart is, but it is served cut into small pieces and threaded on a skewer as a spiedini, which is basically an Italian kebab. The spiedini are served with a housemade pepper hot sauce that I could drink on its own, shaved fennel, and thin flatbreads which I am certain are also made in house. You tuck a little chunk of beef heart and a few fennel shavings into the flatbread and drizzle (or douse) it with the hot sauce and you have one tasty little snack. The texture is a little chewy, but that’s really the only giveaway that you’re noshing on organ meat.
If you don’t think you like offal, please go to Three Aces and order yourself the beef heart spiedini and the chicken liver pate and then tell me what you think. I’d be willing to bet you’re going to be pleasantly surprised. Cheers!